Length: 27 days
Tour Company: Over the Horizon
Tour: Costa Rica – February 2017
Traveler: Dave
Places visited*:
- San José, San José Province
- Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas Province
- Montezuma, Puntarenas Province
- Playa Santa Teresa, Puntarenas Province
- Playa Sámara, Guanacaste Province
- Tamarindo, Guanacaste Province
- Monteverde / Santa Elena, Puntarenas Province
- La Fortuna, Alajuela Province
*It’s important to include the province as the same city names are used in almost every province.
San José, San José
Upon arrival in San José (SJO) Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, immigration is quite easy to navigate and clear. Next stop is the baggage area which has a few options for local SIM Cards.
I used Kolbi, which I found has excellent coverage throughout Costa Rica, with the exception of on the beach at Playa Santa Teresa, but honestly, with that beach and surf, who wants their phone? It costs $20 (February 2017 price) for 30 days, 2 GB of 4G data, 500 local texts, and 100 local minutes of talk. They will put the card in and set it up to work for you! Be sure to bring your SIM Card door tool (or a small paperclip), if your phone needs one to get the card out.
After collecting my baggage, I went outside to catch my free shuttle to the Hampton Inn and Suites by Hilton San José-Airport. The hotel is only 5 minutes away from the airport, next to a Casino and a few of the rental car agencies, and is a great place to relax before heading out to explore Costa Rica or to recover before heading on to the next destination. The hotel has free WiFi, a pool, fitness center, free breakfast, snacks, and is extremely comfortable. We stayed her for 2 nights on arrival (waiting for the group to arrive) and a few nights before leaving Costa Rica (different departure dates for each person). It’s quite pricey, around $180 – $200 per night for 2 queen beds, due to its proximity to the airport, car rental agencies, and because of the free shuttle that runs 24 hours a day.
One night at the end of the trip was also spent in the Holiday Inn Express San José Costa Rica, which is right next door to the Hampton Inn and Suites and uses the same airport shuttle. We stayed here because the Hampton Inn was sold out that night. The pre-paid rate here was $135 per night, which is a little better than the Hampton Inn, but the hotel is a little less comfortable with double rooms having 2 double beds, as opposed to 2 queen beds, which was a little tight for 4 people, but we made it work. The hotel has free WiFi, a pool, fitness center, free breakfast, a pool, and snacks.
For this trip, we decided that over the course of 25 days we were going to enough places to justify renting a vehicle, especially splitting it between 4 people. This proved to be a great idea as we had the freedom to go where we wanted, when we wanted, in the shortest amount of time possible. Had we tried to use public transportation, entire days would have been wasted on busses trying to get between location, or we would have had to share a shuttle with others and be bound by the shuttle schedule. The car was the best option for us. Since we were in a hotel right across the street from the rental car agencies, we decided to go over and price out a 4×4 SUV for the trip.
We talked to Economy Rent a Car, Thrifty Rental Car, Solid Rent a Car, 2 Go Rent a Car, and Vamos Rent-a-Car. After going back and forth a few times and looking at different vehicles (specifically 4×4 SUV with GPS, unlimited km, and full insurance), we narrowed it down to Economy and Thrifty. Both offered us a similar vehicle for around the same price, but Thrifty wanted it back 1 night sooner than Economy and Economy got us a 2016 with GPS. Thrifty wanted extra for the GPS. Decision made, we went with Economy. Now, we arranged to have the car brought to the hotel later in the afternoon (so that we could bring it back by the same time when we returned) and the rep (Diego) promised us it would be there by 3pm and they would do all the paperwork at the hotel. I thought this was a bit strange, since we were right at the agency, why not do the paperwork now and bring the car over later, but we went with it.
When the driver and car finally arrived, we started the paperwork and realized that Economy had subcontracted another rental car agency, Paradise Rent A Car (the website on their contract doesn’t work). We went over the car, the paperwork, etc. and signed our lives away. Fast forward to the Nicoya Peninsula, where a 4×4 is handy, and we learned that our little Hyundai Tuscon 4×4, was actually not 4×4. We saw dozens of Tuscons with AWD badges on them, but ours did not. I guess we got the only non AWD Tuscon in Costa Rica. We were under the impression that when we requested 4×4 and Diego at Economy said yes, 4×4, no problem, we were getting a 4×4. When we returned the vehicle, we asked why it wasn’t AWD when we specifically asked for it and the guy from Paradise (seems to be a 1 family operation) said he wasn’t told AWD by Economy and wishes we would have caught it when he brought it, he would have changed it.
Lesson learned. Go with a more reputable company such as Thrifty that doesn’t subcontract their cars and definitely confirm the vehicle you get has AWD if you requested AWD. We made it, with 1 minor issue during a river crossing thanks to the GPS and not knowing we did not have AWD, but it worked out and made for an interesting story.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Hampton Inn and Suites: As part of staying here, breakfast was included. The breakfast was quite good and had cereals, granola, yogurt, eggs, bacon or sausage, waffles, rice and beans, breads, juices, coffee, tea, etc.
Holiday Inn Express: As part of staying here, breakfast was included. The breakfast was quite good and had cereals, granola, yogurt, eggs, waffles, rice and beans, breads, juices, coffee, tea, etc. The breakfast here was a little better than the one at the Hampton Inn and Suites.
Denny’s Aeropuerto: This is a standard Denny’s like in the U.S. with a large menu of all day meals and they are open 24 hours. The food is good and serving sizes are large. The biggest downfall of this Denny’s is the price of food. Pancakes can cost USD $12, Steak and Eggs is USD $36, and a Club Sandwich is USD $16, drinks not included. Proximity to the airport and the only 24 hour food option next to the 2 hotels and the casino no doubt drive these prices. If it hadn’t been the only thing open at the times I’ve been in here, I would definitely not go.
RostiPollos: RostiPollos is a franchise in Nicaragua and Costa Rica that serves roasted and rotisserie chicken dishes. The chicken can be served in traditional Central American dishes such as casados or canastos, or can be served with sides of fries/chips, vegetables, etc. The meal I ordered was quite good and the prices were reasonable. If they were open later, I would have definitely chosen this over Denny’s.
La Fábrica Pizzeria: La Fábrica is a traditional Italian pizzeria with large brick ovens that were designed and built in Italy. They are even certified by the government of Italy as an authentically Italian restaurant. In addition to authentic Italian pizza, they also have a wide variety of fresh pasta dishes. You have the option of having your pasta be cooked from pre-made pasta (spaghetti, penne, wheat penne) or having your pasta fresh made (fettuccine, spaghetti, maccheroni, gargenello, and ravioli) for USD $2 more. The food is outstanding and we even came back a second time before leaving. Well worth a visit if you’re looking for food near the airport. It’s located in the Plaza Real Alajuela, along with many other restaurants, movie theaters, shops, banks, ATMs, etc.
Subway: Standard Subway like anywhere else in the world. Prices were similar to those in the U.S.
We’re off on our adventure!
Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas
During breakfast, we finally decided to locate a place to stay while we had WiFi. We decided to try out the Selina Hostel in Quepos, just up the hill from Manuel Antonio. One of the group had stayed in a Selina Hostel before and really liked it. We loaded up the car and headed 2.5 – 3 hours South West towards the Pacific coast. Along the way, there were quite a few tolls along the highway, so be prepared if you decide to rent a car and drive around Costa Rica.
Along the way, there is a bridge over the Rio Tocales called Crocodile Bridge. You can’t miss it as there are people standing all along it looking over the edge, generally on the South side (right if you’re coming from San José, Left if coming from Manuel Antonio). In the river are some very large crocodiles that have been relocated from other areas to this spot where they can live without any issues. Just before the bridge (if coming from San José) there are shops and restrooms, if needed, as well as the parking. It’s quite a sight to see all the massive crocs huddled together.
Back in the car, we continued on to Quepos and Manuel Antonio. We went straight to the main beach since we couldn’t check in to the hostel yet. Parking along the road is tight and someone charges you a fee (generally around 3,000 colones / $6) for you to park and ‘they are security and will watch your car’. There is really nowhere to park in the area that there isn’t someone in an orange vest doing the same. They are also very helpful at pointing you in the direction of a friend of theirs who has very good prices on beach umbrellas, chairs, drinks, etc. Whatever you need, they will point you to someone they know.
The main beach, Playa Espadilla, is really nice with soft white sand, warm water, and small(ish) waves that make swimming pleasant, but there is not much shade in the main area. When facing the water, if you walk down the beach to the right (North West) the farther down you go, the more shade you will find during the day as there are trees overhanging the sand. Being the West coast, in the afternoon, the sun is out over the water shining back towards the beach, so there is no real shade on any of the beach except the far NW end where there is a hill that blocks the setting sun. Beware of rip currents here as there are no lifeguards around and it happens quick. Three of us got caught in a rip current down at the far end of the beach and 2 of us almost didn’t get back in. We knew where it was, we were watching, but took our eyes off the area for a few minutes and all of a sudden we were behind the break and had a hell of a time getting back in.
Across the road from the main beach’s SE end is the ‘town’ and there are restaurants and shops along the main road where you can get food and drinks. There are also vendors that walk the beach selling cold drinks. We even got to see Capuchin monkeys and iguanas in the trees right where we were sitting.
The other beaches in the area are located in the Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. The national park costs USD $16 (Feb 2017 rate) to get in for the day. Bring drinks and snack with you as there are no vendors inside the park. Be sure to keep your snacks secure because raccoons will steal your bag if they get a chance. The best beach in the park is Playa Manuel Antonio, which faces its own bay. Since it’s shielded from the direct waves of the Pacific, the waves here are really gentle, the water is warm and clear, the sand is soft, and there are a lot of trees for sitting in the shade. This is where most of the people are in the water and the beach can be quite busy, especially on a weekend. Another beach, Playa Las Gemelas, is a short walk away from Play Manuel Antonio, and has much fewer people. The beach has a good amount of shade, but it is quite rocky, the waves are a bit stronger here since it is not blocked from the Pacific like Playa Manuel Antonio, and the small rocks/shells in the water is a bit uncomfortable on the feet if you do go swimming here. In addition to the beaches, there are trails that run through the park and you can see many different kinds of animals here including deer, raccoons, squirrel monkeys, Capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys, sloths, iguana, birds, and more. It’s worth the entry fee for the beach and for the chance to see the animals up close.
Selina Hostal is located near the top of the hill between the main part of Quepos and the beaches of Manuel Antonio, right across the street from El Avión restaurant (it has a large aircraft as its bar, can’t miss it). Selina is a multi level hostel with rooms that are available in Private Standard, Apartment, and 4, 6, 8, and 10 bed dorms. Each room has a private bathroom, night shelf for each bed, a locker for each bed (bring your own lock), air conditioning, and a fan. The hostel has a bar/restaurant with good prices on both food and drinks, breakfast is USD $5 per person, there is a shared kitchen if you’d like to cook your own food (which we did), 2 pools, pool table, parking, a rooftop Yoga deck, and a tour reservation desk for area adventures. The bus between Quepos and the beach stops right outside the hostel and is 500 colones (USD $1) each way. A nice cheap way to get around. The location also offers numerous restaurants, an ATM, and markets within short walking distance. We opted for 4 beds in a 6 bed dorm, which worked out well for us as we only had 1 night where we had 2 roommates. The beds are 2 high bunk beds, single size, but comfortable. They are a little tough to get in and out of the top bunk as the whole thing shakes while you’re climbing the ladder, but, for the price per night, nothing to worry about.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Selina Hostal: We had quite a few drinks here as part of happy hours. The drinks were strong, top shelf alcohol, and priced well. You could get your drinks in a plastic cup as well if you were going to be around or in the pool, which we were most of the time. Breakfast was a good value at USD $5 for a buffet of eggs, potatoes, granola, yogurt, gallo pinto (rice and black beans), fruit, juice, and water. I did not have any of their other food from the menu, but the prices and selection both looked good.
Marlin Restaurant: Marlin restaurant is a 2 story, beach front restaurant that serves fresh seafood (surprise!). The prices are a bit high, but you will find that food anywhere in Costa Rica is expensive for the region. I had the Tuna Burger, which has a fresh tuna steak, avocado, lettuce, tomato, and cheese on a large bun, served with fries/chips. The tuna in Costa Rica is generally very good and this one was no different. I’ve been to Marlin each time I’ve been to Manuel Antonio and would continue to eat here on any future visit.
El Avión: I’ve eaten at the restaurant before and the food was great, but expensive. More expensive than other restaurants, thanks to the view the restaurant provides over the ocean, which makes for amazing sunsets while having dinner. But this time, after happy hour at the hostel, we decided to walk (stumble) across the street to continue drinking in an airplane. That’s right, this place has an old, gutted, C-123 military cargo plane built-in and it’s the bar! Climb up into the cockpit, sit in the pilot’s or copilot’s seat, and drink while checking out what’s left of the plane and waving at people walking by. Drinks in the bar are good and strong, but are not as cheap as at the hostel. After all, it’s an airplane and everything costs more on an airplane.
The Brooklyn Bakery: We went here for breakfast before leaving Quepos and the menu seemed to have amazing food. The main seating area was under construction, so they only had 1 table for 8 people, which was occupied, and 1 table for 2 people, also occupied. We decided to order our food (some of which we couldn’t order because they didn’t have the ingredients) and get it to go since the tables had not been served yet. We ordered, paid, and were told the food would be ready in 10 minutes. We went for a walk and came back 10 minutes later. The food was not ready and had not even been started yet. When we finally got our food (35 minutes after ordering, for omelette and french toast), the table had opened up, so we decided to sit and eat here. 2 of the 4 orders were not correct and some of the drinks were forgotten. Rather than wait another who-knows-how-long, we decided to just eat the half-omelette we did have. I did not enjoy the food or service here and would not recommend this bakery for breakfast.
For photos from Manuel Antonio, check out my album on Facebook.
Montezuma, Puntarenas
Heading back up the coast, we had to take the Naviera Tambor ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera. This is the quickest way to the Nicoya Peninsula from the South or the East. The ferry cost around USD $27 for the car and 4 passengers and takes about 1.5 to cross the gulf. To drive around would take about 3.5 hours to get to the same ferry dock. There are 6 crossings a day and the start to sell tickets 40 minutes prior to departure and start loading cars and passengers 30 minutes prior to departure. Only the driver can be in the car as you drive it on to the ferry, all other passengers must walk on through the passenger gangway.
After getting off the ferry, it is another 1.5 hours to Montezuma over some windy, bumpy roads. Our GPS sent us down some paths (I won’t say road) that they consider ‘shortcuts’. that our car had a tough time getting up some of the hills of loose gravel (this is where we discovered that the car is front wheel drive and not all wheel drive).
We arrived at our accommodation for the next few nights, a place we found on Airbnb called Casa Guanacaste at Blanconejo de Montezuma (Montezuma White Rabbit). We were met on arrival by our host, Lucia, who was super friendly and helpful. The house was normally for 3 people, but she set up an extra bed for us to have 4 people. There was plenty of room for all of us and the house had a kitchen with mini fridge, dishes, 2 burner gas stove, and a full array of kitchen ware and appliances. There was even coffee and tea in the kitchen for us. There is secure parking on site, a pool, laundry facility, and a night guard who lives on the property with his wife. The location is about 1.5 km (0.9 mi) up the steep hill from Montezuma , the stores, restaurants, and the beach, but since we had a car, this was not an issue and we planned to cook our meals at the house.
For our food supplies, we shopped at Super Montezuma, the main shop in the tiny town. Here we were able to get all the supplies we needed to cook breakfasts and dinners for the nights we were there.
The activities we did in the area were:
Fishing: We booked a full day (7 hour) coastal fishing trip with Cabo Blanco Travelers for 4 of us. We were scheduled to leave at 7am and be back at 2pm and were told to be on the beach a little before 7 so we could load up and get going for 7. We arrived at 7 and there were no boats on the beach, at all. So, we thought maybe we were in the wrong place and started to look around. I walked down the beach and around the point to see if there were any beaches around the corner that the boat may be on, and nothing. We went to the tour office and they don’t open until 9 and then we tried calling the phone numbers on the receipt. We started to get concerned that maybe we had been ripped off. Around 7:30, we saw someone bringing 4 fishing poles and some coolers down to the water’s edge, so one of the group walked down and asked them if that was for us. Apparently it was for us and the boat was slow getting to the beach due to the tides (you’d think a fishing company would know the tide times for scheduling trips). We finally got on the boat and pushed off around 8am and were assured that we would still get the 7 hours for which we paid. We also had beer, fruit, water, juice, tea, and lunch provided for us on the boat and there was more than enough for us, except the beer, that ran out.
The fishing started out great with 2 bonito (a type of tuna) on the line within 30 minutes of getting on the water and a third about 30 minutes after that. Over the next 6 hours, we got 1 more bonito on the line, saw some turtles, a dolphin, birds, and caught some nice tans. We kept 2 of the bonito for dinner and let one go since 2 were enough for us. They didn’t clean and bleed out the fish on the boat, just threw them in a cool storage well (not a live well) and not refrigerated When we got back to the beach (yes, at 3) we asked for our fish, but the captain was planning to keep them. We told him no, we wanted them since we were having them for dinner. After a bit of back and forth, we ended up with the bigger of the 2, which we felt was enough for us anyway, but they did not fillet it for us, just gutted it and rinsed it in the sea. Since it had not been bled out when it was caught, it was not as good as it should have been, but was still pretty good to have fresh fish that we caught.
I don’t recommend going with Cabo Blanco Travelers for a fishing trip. The boat is small and the service is not what we were expecting for the price we paid. They were only using spinners and 1 of the 4 lines had dead bait on it. For fishing in the pacific waters of Costa Rica, live bait is best though.
Montezuma Waterfalls: I knew about these falls from my last trip to Costa Rica, but had not been before and after talking to our Airbnb host, Lucia, about where it was and what should we bring, we set out to hike to the Montezuma Waterfalls. The falls are a series of 3 falls about 20-30 minute walk up the river from the parking area (the attendant charges 1,000 colones (USD $2) to park, we were asked on the way out). The hike is over rocky terrain and can be slippery when wet, so it’s best to wear hiking boots/shoes for the hike. The first falls are 40-47 m (130-165 ft) tall depending who you ask, the second falls are 12-15 m (40-50 ft), and the third falls are 3-5 m (10-16 ft) tall. You can jump off a rock formation to the left of the first falls, from a height of about 3-5 m (10-16 ft) or, like some locals, climb the rock wall to the right of the falls and jump from higher up, which is NOT recommended unless you absolutely know where you are jumping and how to land. Yes, people have been seriously injured and/or died trying it. The second falls have a much more manageable height and places to jump from, but getting up there is a great hike in itself. From the first falls, you head to a small trail to the right of where everyone sits and climb almost vertical up the face of the hill using tree roots to help pull yourself up. Once at the top of the hill, you walk around the rim back towards the falls and then down a steep face using the ropes provided to help get you down. This is a 1 way trip as it is not advised to try to go back down the face to the first falls. From the top of the first falls (pool for the bottom of the second falls) you can walk around the pool and back up the rocks to the top of #2 and then from the top of #2 around the right side of the pool for the third falls using the ropes to assist. At the top of the third falls, you can cross the river and there is a set of stairs that will lead you out and back to the river bed downstream of the first falls. This path belongs to a zip line company and they charge you 1,000 colones (USD $2) per person (I’ve heard as high as 2,000 colones / $4) to use their trail. Have cash with you to get back down safely.
To see video of jumping from the second falls, click here.
For photos from Montezuma, check out my album on Facebook.
Playa Santa Teresa, Puntarenas
Still my favorite beach (so far) in Costa Rica, Playa Santa Teresa is located near the Southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, on the West coast. Getting there from Montezuma takes about 45 minutes over the very bumpy, main, dirt roads. On the way into Carmen, there is the one gas station in the area if you need it, which you will if you have a rental car or use any of the quads for rent in the area. It’s about 10 minutes drive from the station to Playa Santa Teresa.
The main street is where most of the hotels/hostels, shops, and restaurants are located. We found that there was a brand new Selina Hostal Santa Teresa and since we enjoyed the one in Manuel Antonio, decided to spend the next 4 nights there. Selina Hostal is located adjacent to the main beach access road, about 300 m (1,000 ft) North of the main futbol (soccer) pitch. Selina is a multi level hostel with rooms that are available in Standard, Deluxe, Suite, Family Room, and 4, 6, 7, 9, and 12 bed dorms. Each room has a private bathroom, night shelf for each bed, a locker for each bed (bring your own lock), air conditioning, and a fan, with the exception of the 12 bed dorms that have shared larger bathrooms at the ends of the building on each floor. The hostel has a bar/restaurant with good prices on both food and drinks, breakfast is USD $5 per person, there is a shared kitchen if you’d like to cook your own food (which we did), a pool, pool table, parking, and a tour reservation desk for area adventures. The bus between Santa Teresa and San José/Cobano/Montezuma/Paquera/Puntarenas stops right outside the hostel and the price varies depending on where you are going. The location also offers numerous restaurants, and markets within short walking distance. The only cash machines are about a 30 minute walk or 5 minute car ride away in Carmen, so be sure to bring cash with you. We opted for 4 beds in a 6 bed dorm. We had the same roommates for the first 3 nights, and the whole room to ourselves for the last night. The beds are exactly the same make/model as the ones in Manuel Antonio, 2 high bunk beds, single size, but comfortable. The room here was much darker as it faced a high concrete wall and the bathroom was much smaller than the one in Manuel Antonio.
For our food supplies, we shopped at Super Ronny’s #2, the main shop in the area. Here we were able to get all the supplies we needed to cook the few meals we did.
The beach is soft, white sand, it offers a wide area to walk when the tide is out, and there is plenty of shade from overhanging palm trees. From one end of the beach to the other, the waves are full of surfers and the beach filled with people tanning, swimming, and watching the surfers. For a more secluded visit, head to the North end of the beach, away from the center of town. The surfers and people stay more towards the south end, near the main access path from the street. No matter where you are on the beach, it’s beautiful. Sunset always sees the beach fill up as what seems like everyone in the area comes out to watch. The sunsets here are some of the best I’ve ever witnessed. During this trip, there were really no clouds, so the sky wasn’t as colorful as it could be, but it’s still great to see the sun dip below the horizon, unobstructed. For videos of the sunsets, click here.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Selina Hostal: We mainly had beers here, but the prices were quite reasonable. You could get a plastic cup for your beer if you were going to be around or in the pool, but we just kept the bottles. I did not have any of their mixed drinks, but I’m sure they would be similar to the other Selina Hostal. The restaurant here is much less lively than Manuel Antonio, but serves a few items for dinner, in addition to drinks. Breakfast was the same as the other Selina as well, USD $5 for a buffet of eggs, potatoes, granola, yogurt, gallo pinto (rice and black beans), fruit, juice, and water.
Burger Rancho: Burger Rancho has, you guessed it, a menu with burgers, but they also serve starters, salads, seafood, and casados. I personally had the Hawaiian Burger, which is a tuna burger with cheese, avocado, pineapple, a garlic sauce, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, and comes with hand cut fries. The food here is really good and reasonably priced. They only accept cash, so make sure you have some with you.
Pizza Tomate: Home of the best pizza, and seemingly longest happy hours, in Santa Teresa, Pizza Tomate also has daily specials, seafood, salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes, and, of course, casado. I’ve never had a bad meal at this restaurant, whether it be pizza, pasta, calzone, salad, or seafood. They also have WiFi for customers. They do accept credit card, but they definitely do not like to use it. Cash is the best way to do anything in Santa Teresa. I recommend visiting Pizza Tomate if you’re in the area.
Zwart Art Cafe: This place is the best breakfast spot in the area, but they also serve sandwiches for lunch and dinner. In addition to being a Cafe, they are also an Art Studio. Every piece of art in there is available for purchase and there is so much to check out. As with Pizza Tomate, I’ve never had a bad meal here, whether breakfast or lunch. The food here is a bit expensive, but it is high quality, all natural food. They only accept cash and they also have WiFi for their customers.
Soda Pura Vida: Most times I walk by this place, it’s packed. That is usually an indication of it being a great place to eat. We decided to give it a try one night since it was a soda and the prices should be much less than normal restaurants. A Soda is a typical Costa Rican restaurant that generally specialize in casado and have local prices. They have a great rating on places like Trip Advisor and Facebook and expectations were high. We sat down and from the time we sat down to the time we got our food was almost 1.5 hours. We didn’t even order anything complex, a tuna sandwich, a chicken burger, and a typical fish dish. Now I know why the place is always busy, once you sit down, it’s hours before you can leave. All 3 meals we ordered were horrible. The tuna sandwich was canned tuna on soggy bread (had to use a fork and knife because I could not pick it up without it falling apart), with nothing else, the fries were undercooked and unappealing, the chicken burger came out as a beef burger instead and I was told it was horrible. The fish dish got a look after one bite that told you all you needed to know about it. The prices were definitely not low enough for what we got there. I’m not sure how they received such a high rating, but we were definitely not happy with our meals. I am not sure if they take credit card or not, we paid with cash to get out of there. It was so bad, I went over to Pizza Tomate and picked up 3 slices of pizza for less than I paid for that awful tuna mess. I do not recommend visiting Soda Pura Vida. If you do, I hope your experience is better than ours.
Kika Santa Teresa: We went to Kika for Reggae Night, but there was definitely no Reggae going on. There was a band, but they were playing all kinds of classic rock songs, which was fine for me. The drinks were very strong and not overly expensive. The place was very busy as it was the Party of the Night in the area. They are also a restaurant with a full menu on most nights and before the party.
The activities we did in the area were:
Scuba Diving: We considered diving while in Montezuma, but didn’t have the time and it was a little expensive, so we decided to check once we arrived in Santa Teresa. We found ourselves at Iguana Divers, which is an actual, PADI dive center, as opposed to one of the numerous tour companies that take everyone to Isla Tortuga. We chose this shop because one of our group was not a certified diver and needed an intro course in order to come with us. Luckily, Iguana Divers offers a dive package with a 45 – 60 minute intro course in the pool for new divers. The package for the certified divers was 2 dives of 60 minutes each and for the new diver, an intro pool dive and 1 dive of 60 minutes, with ability to add the 2nd dive by renting another bottle. The dives were done at Iguana’s GPS marked locations in the ocean. No other companies go here and the locations are not marked other than in their GPS and are not visible from the surface. Iguana Divers reported that in the past 10 days, they had seen Manta Rays 6 days and heard there was a Whale Shark in the area as well. We were very excited at the chance to see Manta and possibly a Whale Shark.
The conditions in the water were quite cloudy, which is good for Manta and Whale Shark, but not the greatest for divers. We were able to see quite a few things while in the water though, such as shark, octopus, sting rays, various fish, eel, etc. The dives were a bit short due to air consumption, but all-in-all a great day.
For videos of the dives, click the links for Dive 1 and for Dive 2.
BEACH!: Don’t really need to say much about this one, do I? Sun, sand, hammock, and warm water.
Reserva Natural Cabo Blanco: Located on the Southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula lies the 12.7 sq. km (4.9 sq. mi) land and 1,790 ha (4,420 acre) marine protected area of the Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve. The reserve stretches from Cabuya on the East to Mal Pais on the West and is home to over 140 species of trees and a variety of mammals including Howler monkeys, Capuchin monkeys, white-nosed coati, white-tailed deer, margay, and even coyote. The protected water hosts abundant amounts of marine birds, fish, crabs, mollusks, and conch. On Cabo Blanco Island is a healthy population of brown boobies and pelicans. The park is close on Monday and Tuesday, and of course we ended up going on a Tuesday. The gate was not locked, so we parked outside the entrance and walked in and around the park for about an hour or so checking out the scenery before heading to Sámara.
For photos from Playa Santa Teresa check out my album on Facebook.
Playa Sámara, Guanacaste
Even though Playa Sámara is about 50 km (30 mi) up the coast, there is no straight way to get there. Instead you have to drive for 4 hours, all the way around the peninsula 178 km (110.6 mi) to get there. There apparently used to be a bridge in San Francisco de Coyote, but a flood washed it out and it hasn’t been replaced.The drive is less distance, but almost the same amount of time due to road conditions, so it’s safer to just go the long way around.
When we arrived in Playa Sámara, we had yet to find a place to stay for the night. We decided to park the car, stop in to a restaurant with WiFi, grab some dinner and drinks, and search the net for a place to stay. Thanks to Airbnb, we came across a house that worked out perfectly for us, the Villa Tucan at Villas Max. The house has 3 bedrooms, with a queen bed in one, and 2 rooms 2 single beds in each, 2 bathrooms, one in the main bedroom, and one shared between the rest of the house, laundry, full kitchen with a 4 burner gas stove (no oven), a BBQ, WiFi, air conditioning in the bedrooms, gated entry, secure parking, and our own pool. The house is located 2.5 km (1.5 mi) by car to the beach and main part of town which makes it nice and quiet. Our host Max was very funny, quite crazy, and super helpful. He doesn’t speak English (only Italian and some Spanish), but his wife does. Unfortunately for us, she was in San José having a baby! We all did the best we could to communicate and on our last day he was able to call her on the cell phone so we could settle the bill correctly. They were great hosts and I would definitely recommend staying with them if you come to Sámara.
For our food supplies, we shopped at a number of stores, including Iguana Verde for alcohol, Minisuper la Amistad for occasional ice cream, and Super Sámara for most food as it is the main shop in the area. Between the three, we were able to get all the supplies we needed to cook all our meals.
Here we mostly cooked meals ourselves, but we did visit a few of the places for food and drinks:
Bar Restaurante Tabanuco: Located on the beach, Bar Restaurante Tabanuco has great views of the beach, ocean, and sunset from the all outdoor seating. The menu is quite extensive, offering a lot of everything. I was not too hungry, so ordered a beer, which was super cold and refreshing, and a tuna sandwich, which again I was expecting a tuna fillet and got canned tuna. For an area that specializes in their fresh seafood, one would hope they serve something better than canned tuna. The other meals looked much more appetizing, though. A second beer helped get over the underwhelming tuna sandwich. Prices for food here were about the same as anywhere else in Costa Rica, a little higher than you’d expect for what you order. I’d recommend eating and drinking here, but don’t order the tuna sandwich. The rest of the menu has more than enough better choices.
La Dolce Vida: We decided to stop here for brunch (only because we got up late and wanted breakfast food) before going for a walk on the beach. Tables are set up outside in the sand in the shade of some large trees. Although we came here for breakfast food, we all ended up ordering a smoothie, which counted as a breakfast item, and then some BBQ plates and a salad for one of the group. The BBQ chicken platter that I ordered was not all I was hoping. It was more of a baked 1/2 chicken, with no flavor. For the price, and the name, it should have at least been cooked over a fire and seasoned with something. From the others in the group, the other BBQ plates were lacking flavor as well, they had chicken and smoked sausages. The salad was the best food our of the order. We should have gone with breakfast after all.
Pizza Paraiso: This is the only pizza shop in town that delivers, but I opted to go there to order and pick up as we did not have a menu. I ordered 2 large specials (everything) and 1 large vegetarian for the 4 of us to share. I was asked to get a lot, because they were starving and would eat it. These pizzas were quite heavy with toppings, but they put WAY too many mushrooms on all the pizzas. The mushrooms were a layer of their own; sauce, cheese, mushrooms, the rest of the toppings sprinkled on. The pizza was not great, but it’s pizza. Even when it’s bad, it’s still good. I wouldn’t recommend getting pizza here, but it was the only one open when we wanted pizza. Our Airbnb host, Max (he’s Italian), said he doesn’t eat here and that there is a much better place in town, but I forgot the name of it. I believe it was Locanda Hotel and Restaurante Pizzeria.
As for activities in Playa Sámara, there are plenty of options, such as horseback riding, ATVs, scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, kayaking, etc., but we did none of these. We spent the 2 days we were in Sámara just relaxing, swimming in our own pool, eating good food, drinking lots of vodka and orange Fanta slush (it gets slushy if you put it in the freezer!), listening to good music, and walking the whole length of the beach once a day.
For photos from Playa Sámara, check out my album on Facebook.
For videos of the stars in Sámara, click here.
Tamarindo, Guanacaste
Next stop on our adventure was to one of the more touristy hotspots of the Nicoya Peninsula, Tamarindo. Tamarindo is in the far Northern part of the Nicoya Peninsula and is most accessible location along the northern Pacific coast of Costa Rica with an airstrip, scheduled daily bus service to and from San José, paved highway all the way from San José. It was nice to be on paved roads again.
Our home for the next 2 nights was Blue Trailz Hostel & Surf Camp, located directly across the street from the beach and next to Alamo Rent a Car. The hostel has street parking directly in front of the office, 24 hour security, a tour desk, WiFi, a common area, tons of surf boards for rent, boogie boards, shared kitchen for the dorm rooms, and offer 2 different room types: Private room, which has 2 queen beds and a 2 bed bunk for up to 6 people, or they have a 6 bed mixed dorm available. We chose to rent the private room because it has its own kitchen, with stove, oven, mini fridge, dishes, and cookware, a balcony, private bathroom, air conditioning, and a safe. All this for only USD $69 a night, which we split by 4 and is definitely not bad to spend 2 nights in Tamarindo for USD $39 per person (after taxes). That’s where the saving stopped, the food in Tamarindo is more expensive than any of the other stops on this trip, I’m guessing due to the large amount of tourists and upper scale hotels here. I would definitely stay here again and you should check it out if you’re ever in Tamarindo.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Subway: Standard Subway like anywhere else in the world. Prices were similar to those in the U.S.
Longboards Barbeque: OK, as a citizen of the U.S., who has lived in and traveled throughout BBQ country in the Southeast and Midwest U.S., this place knows how to make proper smoked meat. We’re talking pulled pork smoked for 10 hours, brisket smoked for 8 hours, smoked chicken, and grilled fish. Yes, I understand grilled fish doesn’t normally go with smoked BBQ, but it was amazing! I ordered the 3 Meat Extravaganza (on the menu it says ‘ask your server’), which gives you the choice of 3 meats out of pulled pork, brisket, chicken, and grilled fish. Since I had chicken for lunch, I went with the pulled pork, brisket, and fish with sweet potato fries, sweet baby corn, and topped it all off with an ice-cold bottle of Imperial Silver. This meal was phenomenal and I would go here again and again and again and again. A definite must if you are in Tamarindo and enjoy good barbecue. Another plus is that the prices are outstanding for Tamarindo. My whole meal, including 2 beers and taxes, was USD $17. They take credit card and have free WiFi for customers.
Patagonia Argentinian Grill & Restaurant: This was a special treat for us to have dinner at a high-end restaurant. We tried to get in here the first night, but it’s so busy and popular, if you don’t have a reservation, you could be waiting hours for a table. We decided to just make a reservation for the next night. They specialize in Argentinian beef dishes (steaks!), but have a broad menu with appetizers, chicken, seafood, salads, and a decent wine menu. I ordered a beautiful beef tenderloin, cooked medium rare, with a peppercorn sauce, mashed potatoes, and vegetables. The fillet was cooked perfectly, the potatoes were creamy, and the vegetables were sautéed to the perfect tenderness, and all were extremely flavorful. Serious food envy going on in this place, everything on every table looked amazing. This meal is tied for best meal on this trip so far with the BBQ at Longboards. They are in 2 different categories meals, but as far as quality and taste, both were top in my book. Prices here are much higher than anything we’ve had so far. My dinner and drink came to around USD $40 with taxes. They do accept credit cards, but again, we paid in cash.
Venezia Gelati & Caffe: Gelato… that should be enough of a review! Venezia Gelati & Caffe is connected to the Hotel Tamarindo Diria Beach Resort and, more specifically, Pizzeria Nari in the Grand Diria Boulevard. This hotel and its many restaurants all have an Italian influence and the gelato is worthy of the name (even though gelato is the Italian word for ice cream). As all gelato should be, it is creamy, dense, and very flavorful. For a taste of real Italian style gelato, this is your place in Tamarindo. It costs about USD $1.50 per scoop, but it’s worth it.
Crazy Monkey Bar: We were told it was Salsa Night and the party would be at Crazy Monkey, so we made our way over there after dinner. We got to the bar and saw that it is a long flight of stairs up a hill to the bar/club. Honestly, who puts a bar on a hill and puts 100 stairs up to it for drunk people to go up and down? On the way up the stairs we were passed by 3 spotted skunks, the Costa Rica version of skunks, which was quite a surprise and we were thankful not to get sprayed. First stop is halfway up the stairs at the cashier to pay the cover charge. Next stop is the top of the stairs where there was a DJ who couldn’t transition between songs smoothly to save his life and changed songs every 45 – 60 seconds no matter how the crowd was reacting to it. Eventually another DJ jumped in for him and was better at switching songs and reacting to the crowd. The bar served drinks in plastic cups, which is understandable considering the drop to the stairs and all the drunk people, and they charged WAY too much for drinks. I wasn’t drinking that night, so it didn’t bother me, but my friends were not pleased with the prices. I would not recommend going to Monkey Bar only because of the prices. If you would like to go, definitely pre-game and don’t buy many drinks while there.
Since we only had the 1 full day here, we decided to just spend it on the beach. We had a bat and ball (paddle ball for U.S. people) set, rented boogie boards from the hostel (USD $5 for the day), brought our cooler with beers, water, cans of pre-mixed mojitos and daiquiris, and some fruit. We had a great day out in the waves and were out there until after sunset and the lifeguard blew the whistle to come back in. Be aware of rip currents here as there is an estuary that flows in and out depending on the tide. You don’t want to be in the estuary because of caymen crocodiles and you don’t want it to push you out as the tide recedes.
For photos from Tamarindo, check out my album on Facebook.
Monteverde / Santa Elena, Puntarenas
Monteverde is in an area in the hills of Western Costa Rica at roughly 1,400 m (4,600 ft) above sea level. It is misty, humid, and windy, has an average temperature of 18 °C (64 °F), annual rainfall around 3 m (9.8 ft), and the humidity is generally between 74% and 97%. All this combines to create one the main attractions here, the Monteverde Cloud Forest. By popular vote in Costa Rica, Monteverde was chosen as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Costa Rica. Newsweek has declared Monteverde ‘the world’s #14 Place to Remember Before it Disappears’ and National Geographic has called the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve ‘the jewel in the crown of cloud forest reserves.’
There are a wide variety of places to stay in the area, but the town of Santa Elena is the best base of operation because of its restaurants, stores, and tour offices. The center of Santa Elena is a series of 3 streets, arranged in a triangle, with each leg measuring about 125 m (410 ft). The streets are lined with shops, restaurants, tour offices, and the main bar, Bar Amigos, is located just off the main street.
We stayed at Pension Santa Elena, which is a hotel on one of the main roads, attached to my favorite place to eat in Santa Elena, Taco Taco. The hotel has a few different room options, a Shared Bath (single or double beds, up to 4 people), Private Standard (1 double or 1 double and 1 single with private bath), Grand Standard (1 double bed and private bath), Petite Suite (2 double beds with private bath), and the Grand Suite (2 double beds and 2 single bunk beds with a private bath), a common area, free breakfast for guests, free coffee and tea all day for guests, free parking, free WiFi, a shared kitchen, and can help book any tours. We booked the Grand Suite for 2 nights, which was a great deal at USD $38.50 per person (after taxes). The room is quite interesting with one double bed and the bunk beds on the main floor and a second double bed on the roof above the bathroom with a ladder attached to the wall. There is no air conditioning here as it doesn’t normally get too warm in Santa Elena, especially at night. It was a great stay for the few nights we were in town.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Super Compro: This is the main grocery store in Santa Elena. We were able to buy everything we needed to cook dinner at the hotel.
Taco Taco: This small, Mexican restaurant was created by the hotel in response to guests’ requests for breakfast at the hotel. They serve locally sourced, hand-made, farm fresh food, that is well worth the wait, even when it’s really busy. In addition to amazing tacos, they have some of the best burritos. Every time I’ve been in Santa Elena, I made sure to eat at Taco Taco.
Restaurante Tico y Rico: Tico y Rico has a little bit of everything, such as breakfast, starters, burgers, sandwiches, typical Costa Rican food (rice and beans, casado, etc.), seafood, chicken, beef, and desserts. The food I’ve ordered here has been good and the prices are reasonable, but the service can be a bit slow. They also have free WiFi and take credit cards. Overall, it’s a good place to stop in for any meal.
Pizzeria Cachete (I’m Hungry): This place is crazy. They are a Fast Food Chinese Pizzeria restaurant or something. WTF, right?!? So they have a Fast Food walk-up window that serves burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, and tacos, that you order at the window, pay at the pizzeria on the other side of the souvenir shop, then come back to the fast food window to pick up your food. Back at the main pizzeria, they serve pizzas, both regular and dessert , calzones, empanadas, crepes, rice dishes, typical Costa Rican food, and Chinese food. I only visited the walk up window to grab a quick burger and fries to hold me over until dinner since we hadn’t eaten yet. The burger was quite good considering the tiny windowed grill area it came from. I’d actually like to try some of their other items to see how they do with such a diverse menu.
Bar y Restaurante Amigos: Being the main bar in Santa Elena, we figured we’d go in for a drink and see what it was like. The first night, they had a live band and wanted to charge a cover to get in, but we just wanted a drink, not to see a live band. We decided to go elsewhere and come back the next night. When we walked in, the place is bigger than it looks from the outside, but was absolutely dead inside. Besides the 5 of us, there were probably another 10 customers. This bar/club/restaurant could easily hold a few hundred people. We had a drink, then bought some drinks to go from the bar and went back to the hotel with our beers. As the only bar, if you’re looking for a bar/club, then this is the place to be. While looking at their Facebook page (link above) they definitely have nights that they are busy, just not the night we were there.
Toro Tinto: Being in the mood for a nice steak, we found ourselves at Toro Tinto. Walking in, you feel like you’re going to have a good meal. The menu is primarily steaks, but they do offer pork, chicken, seafood, and burgers. They had a special Beef Tenderloin in Red Wine sauce that night, which I ordered and it was delicious. Since we came in right around closing, we had the whole place to ourselves and we even met the chef after our meal. This is a great restaurant, the prices are a little high, but worth it. They do accept credit cards and have free WiFi.
The biggest attraction in this area is the cloud forest, which is beautiful to walk through, especially along the bridges in the canopy, but if you’re looking for a little more adventure, you’re in luck! There are zip lines (including the longest in Central America at 2000 meters / 6,562 feet), Bungee Jumping (143 meters / 470 feet with fall of 80 meters / 262 feet), Night Walks to check out what goes bump in the night, and more! Special thanks to Adri, for helping us get these tours booked. She’s the best! The activities we did in the area were:
Zip Lining: Going with 100% Aventura, we were able to fly on a series of 11 zip lines, including the longest in Central America at 2000 m (6,562 ft / 1.25 mi), and a Mega Tarzan Swing at 45 m (148 ft) tall. The tour includes pickup from and drop-off at your hotel. To check out my GoPro video of the tour, click here.
Night Walk: We went on a night walk to the Monteverde Wildlife Refuge (El Refugio) to see what local wildlife comes out at night. During a night walk, you hopefully get to see some of the animals up close while they sleep, others that are only active at night, plenty of insects, scorpions, and tarantulas. This time, we saw a kinkaju, possum, various birds, scorpions, a tarantula, leaf-cutter ants, a side-striped palm pit viper, and a katydid. The tour is 2.5 hours from pickup at your hotel to drop-off back at your hotel, with 2 hours being in the woods.
Hanging Bridges: Since Monteverde is known for the cloud forest, it’s something that has to be seen and admired One of the best areas to visit for the cloud forest is Selvatura Park and their 8 hanging bridges that range in length from 57 m (187 ft) to 157 m (515 ft) through the trees. The park also has a Hummingbird Garden, Butterfly Garden, Insect Exhibition, Herpetarium, and even zip lines, which can all be done as part of the different packages that they offer. We were able to just walk the paths and bridges though. The packages include pickup from and drop-off at your hotel as well.
For photos from Monteverde / Santa Elena, check out my album on Facebook.
La Fortuna, Alajuela
Out final stop of the trip is in La Fortuna, home of Arenal Volcano, Cerro Chato, Arenal Lake, hot springs, fun, and adventure. La Fortuna (The Fortune) was not always the name of this town. It used to be called El Burío, but if you listen to the local guides on almost every tour, the town residents changed the name to La Fortuna in 1968 after the town was spared from the unexpected eruption of Arenal Volcano, meaning they were ‘fortunate’ to have been spared. According to history, until 1948 it was known as ‘El Burío’, however all the natural riches inspired Mr. Rufino Quesada, Mr. Antonio Hidalgo, and Mrs. Isolina Quesada to change the name to ‘La Fortuna’. So the town was already called La Fortuna 20 years before the eruption.
For the next 4 nights, we chose the Arenal Hostel Resort, which is located in the SW corner of the central park, directly across the main street from the church. The resort actually has a sister resort in La Fortuna called Hostel Backpackers La Fortuna (not to be confused with Backpackers Hostel or Arenal BackPackers Hostel) right across 702 and guests at either can use the amenities of each. The hostel wide amenities included free WiFi, a bar, restaurant, 2 pools, hammocks everywhere, tour desk, security, and secure parking.
Arenal Hostel Resort has quite a few room choices, click here to see a full list. We chose the 6 person mixed dorm again and the layout of the room had 2 sets of bunk beds (4 singles) in one area, a set of bunk beds (2 singles) in another area, and a shared bathroom. Since there were 4 of us, it was like having our own room, at least a more private section for us anyway. We only had 1 roommate on any given night, but they were… ‘interesting’. Hostel life, they can’t all be perfect. In addition to the beds and bathroom, the room also had air conditioning, free WiFi (did not work well at all in our room), and individual lockers. The door only had a dead bolt that needed a key from the inside and outside. The hostel was still under construction, but was little more than a minor inconvenience at times. Definitely would stay here again when in La Fortuna. Special thank you to the manager, Danny Corrales, who was super friendly, always made sure we had a good time, really hooked us up with various tours, and even directed me to where to buy the best, local, organic coffee I could get in the area. Another thank you to the bartender, Fabio, who kept supplying us some (ok, a lot) tasty beverages over all 4 days we were camped out at his bar when not on a tour.
A few of the places I visited for food and drinks were:
Arenal Hostel Resort: The hostel had its own bar, which we spent a considerable amount of time sampling their menu. The mixed drinks were really good and all the ones I was drinking were only USD $3 and bottles of beer were USD $2. The bar also had a small restaurant that served tacos, pizzas, chicken fingers and fries, salads, and a few other small dishes. I did not have any of the food here though, just a liquid diet.
La Terraza Sports Bar & Restaurant: This 2 story bar has a bar on each level and room for dancing on the second floor. We went on Salsa Night (isn’t every night Salsa Night in Latin America??) to have a few drinks and watch the locals tear up the dance floor. The music wasn’t too loud and beer was around USD $3 per bottle. They only take cash.
Arenal Crepes & Lounge: Located adjacent to the hostel, Arenal Crepes & Lounge is a small (6 tables of 4 seats) shop that serves brick oven pizza, big burgers, and crepes. The pizza looked and smelled great and the burger was tasty. The service was super slow, even by Costa Rica standards. The food was made one item at a time and brought out as it was done, as in they cooked the burger, brought it out, then the same cook went from the grill over to the brick oven area and started the pizza. By the time the pizza was done, I was long done my burger, meaning I got to eat while my friends had to sit and wait 15 more minutes for their food. I thought the food is worth the visit, if you have the time to wait. I’m not sure about credit cards here, I paid in cash.
Kazan Bar Restaurante: We stopped in to Kazan as we were just walking down the street looking for a place to eat. The menu seemed to have a decent selection and prices were reasonable. The food we ordered, all 4 of us, was pretty bad. It’s not usual for all 4 of us to end up with meals that were not good, but we just happened to luck out here. I would not recommend visiting Kazan when there are so many other places nearby. They do have free WiFi and take credit cards though.
Restaurante La Cascada: This restaurant and bar is located on the NE corner of the park. We stopped here for drinks when we first arrived in town to take advantage of their free WiFi and search for a place to stay for the 4 nights we would be there. The beer was cold and cost USD $3 a bottle. They do take credit cards as well.
Rainforest Cafe: Rainforest Cafe is the place to go for breakfast in La Fortuna. We did have breakfast here, which was amazing, but we also had a late dinner that was also really good. The menu is quite large, with a wide variety of food and the prices are bit lower than other places in La Fortuna. They also have free WiFi and take credit cards. Definitely be sure to stop at Rainforest Cafe if you’re ever in the area.
Lava Rocks Café – Bar el Mango: Lava Rocks and Bar el Mango are attached and you can take drinks from the bar to your table and pay all at once if you want. The drinks are expensive, the menu has a good selection, but the prices are a little higher than other places. I ordered a seafood pasta that was quite nice, but some of the others ordered food that they said was much too salty. The service is a bit slow here, even though we were one of only 2 occupied tables in the dining room. The best part about Lava Rocks is they have a street front Gelato and Ice Cream bar (mmmm gelato). Of course, we visited the gelato stand a few times. I could go either way with Lava Rocks as I enjoyed my meal, but felt the price was excessive. Definitely visit for the gelato though. They have free WiFi and do take credit cards.
La Fortuna is the place for adventure. There are so many different things to do there from hiking (extreme and not so extreme), to nature tours, to rafting, canyoning, river jumping, horse riding, padleboarding, kayaking, mountain biking, relaxing in hot springs, chocolate tours, wine tours, etc. The activities we did in the area were:
Extreme Two Volcano Hike: This tour operates with Arenal Jungle Tours and we booked it through the tour desk at the hostel. The day begins with a safety briefing, getting our lunch bags, and last bathroom stop before our 6+ hours of hiking. We hiked up one side of Cerro Chato to the rim of this extinct volcano, down into the crater, swam in the crater lagoon, had lunch, hiked to the other side of the lagoon, hiked up and out of the crater, then down the far side of Cerro Chato from where we started. The hike was very steep in parts, muddy considering it hadn’t rained in a while, and it was very hot. Once down the far side of Cerro Chato, we hiked to waterfall, then to a lodge that has a great view of Arenal Volcano and Arenal Lake to see the sunset. After sunset, we headed to a hot spring river to lay in the water, relax our muscles in the warm water, and have some drinks. The hike was challenging, but made for an absolutely great day. Be sure to have proper hiking shoes and you will get dirty. If its rainy, have proper rain gear for hiking, and be prepared to get extra muddy. Definitely do it if you’re able.
Rafting Balsa River Class II/III: Balsa River Rafting, as booked through the hostel, was with Costa Rica Descents. The hostel brochure said it was class III/IV, but on Costa Rica Descents website (links above), they only have a class II/III for Balsa River and an advanced Class V, Upper Balsa River trip, that was twice what we paid. While rafting, I thought the rapids didn’t seem like the Class III/IV I had done in the area in July 2016 and now it appears that it wasn’t. It was still a good trip, aside from having to rescue a boat of older tourists who, 1 minute into the river, got dumped out of their raft, hung up on a dead tree, the tree broke free of the embankment and started downriver at the other boats. It was quite the start of the trip. The Balsa River section where the rafting is done is dam-controlled, which means that the river looks low and slow when you arrive, but as soon as they open the dam, the water rises, picks up speed, and becomes more conducive to rafting. Based on the other rafting trip I did here in Costa Rica, I was disappointed in the equipment that this company had; the boats were missing foot loops to help keep you in the boat, the center sections were not attached to the outer walls and were held down with tie down straps causing them to become loose in bigger rapids. I personally would not choose to go with this company again as I know the other company I’ve used is much more professional, has much better equipment, and made for an overall better trip. For GoPro video of the tour, click here.
La Fortuna Waterfalls: The waterfalls can be reached by car, taxi, bike, walking, etc. without having to go on a guided tour. It is located at the end of Diagonal 301 and would take about an hour to an hour and a half to walk from town or it is a 10 minute drive. When you arrive in the parking lot, there is a building at the far end where you can pay your entrance fee of USD $15. This fee goes to conservation of the falls and grants you access to walk down the 450 or so steps (not exaggerating) to the 65 m (200 ft) tall La Fortuna Waterfall and down a few more steps on the left to see some much smaller falls and a crystal clear shallow pool full of trout. At the base of the falls is an emerald pool of cold water that you can swim in, but you’re not allowed to get too close to the falls as the pressure could push you down and keep you under. The water rushing away from it makes it tough to get close to it, but I’m sure it’s possible. It’s worth the walk to check it out, but go first thing in the morning if you want to see it without a lot of people in the way. The park is open 7-5 every day, but they stop selling tickets earlier because of the walk down and back up, so they can lock the gate at 5. We went around 8:30 am and there were only 15-20 people down there when we got there and maybe 50 as we were leaving. They take credit cards as well.
Horse Riding at Arenal Volcano: Another tour booked through the hostel was Horse Riding at Arenal Volcano. On the West side of the volcano lies Arenal Wilberth Stables which not only has horses, but also ATVs to rent and ride similar trails. The stables and riding area are adjacent to the Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, and close to Arenal Lake. We were given helmets and introduced to our horses. My horse’s name was Sparky and he was anything but. Sparky loves to eat, all day, every day. If you get him to trot for any length of time or, God-forbid, run, then it was guaranteed he was going to slow down when he wanted, pull to the side of the trail and start eating again. We got about 2.5 hours on the horses, with a stop at a small river to enjoy the volcanic mud and the crystal clear water. The volcanic mud was supposed to be for our faces and bodies, but really just ended up in a mud fight. The ride and day were great already and we still had the Baldi Hot Springs to go! I would recommend taking a horse ride with Arenal Wilberth Stables, it was fun and we got really close to Arenal Volcano during the ride.
Baldi Hot Springs: Ahhhh, after all the adventure activities, it was time to relax. At the hostel, we booked a day pass to the Baldi Hot Springs Resort. This granted us access to the resort, it’s 29 pools, and the water slides until 10pm. In addition to the resort, the pools, and slides, the pass also included a buffet dinner. The pools were great and varied in temperature from 20° C (68° F) in the ‘cold pools’ to 47° C (116° F). Some of the pools have a bar in them and one pool has 3 water slides, including the most deceiving slide ever. This slide doesn’t look like anything special, a short downhill, 360° turn, more downhill, how bad could it be? Well, the look on everyone’s face after they resurfaced from the beating they just took was exactly the same, a combination of shock and excitement. For some reason, in the 10 ft of slide before the 360° turn you already know you’re going too fast and by the time you exit the 360, your body literally leaves the surface of the slide as it drops out from under you and you crash back against it as you continue to gain speed and then you exit the tube anywhere from the 2 O’Clock to 10 O’Clock position and smash into the hot water. WTF just happened? Definitely get a day pass to the springs (if you’re not staying there already) and enjoy. It was worth it for the price of USD $45 to spend in the pools and get dinner on top of it. Be aware, drinks are expensive, cans of sodas and water are USD $5 and mixed drinks are USD $10.
Gravity Falls: I’ve done this tour 3 times now (Nov ’15, July ’16, Feb ’17) and it’s been different every time, but just as amazing. Desafio Adventure Company has put together my favorite tour of everything I’ve done in the La Fortuna area. After getting picked up at the hotel and driven to the private land out in the middle of the canyons you get into what they call a ‘Jungle Limo’, which is a built-up 4×4 with high ground clearance, mud tires, and really low gears. Once you get to the top, you get suited up with your life jacket, harness, helmet, and gloves. If you have a GoPro, bring it, they have helmets with the clips on them. After the safety briefing, you hike for about 10 minutes to the start of the real fun, a rappel down a 43 m (140 ft) cliff next to a waterfall. At the bottom, you’ll be pulled away from the cliff and dropped into a large, deep pool of water and have a swim your way to shore. This will get your blood and adrenaline flowing for the rest of this multi-sport canyon adventure. From there you’ll hike through the rainforest to where you’ll reach a continuous series of waterfalls and cliffs. The expert guides will help you push your limits as you jump off 3 m (10 ft) to 10 m (30 ft) waterfalls and cliffs into the deep canyon pools. Rain or shine, you are going to have an amazing time and get a chance to see real Costa Rican nature up close. No matter what tour you choose with Desafio, they have quite a few, you are going to have a great experience. They are the best company I’ve done tours with so far. Their prices can be slightly higher than other companies, but their guides and equipment are much better, and worth it, in my opinion. For GoPro video of the tour, click here.
For photos from La Fortuna, check out my album on Facebook.
I hope this gives you some inspiration to take a trip to Costa Rica. It truly is amazing and you will love it. For photos from the trip, check out my albums on Facebook.
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Over The Horizon, LLC 